Archive for the ‘Sweaters’ Category

Into existence

August 7, 2010

All those long months back, I had this idea for a sweater that I drew on paper and submitted to Knitscene. They didn’t want it, which I’m ultimately happy with, because I got to take my time and keep getting more and more fiddly until I had two versions of the sweater.  Yesterday I finally finished the second version, and today I’m having that moment you get in any sort of creative endeavor where you look at something you’ve made and realize that the thing that once existed only in your own head is now a physical reality.

I got unsure about the lace panels as I was finishing them up, but now I’m so glad I went through with it!  It feels finished now, and I think the lace does something really different and special to a simple tee shirt pattern.  The buttons, Victorian glass numbers from Green Ray Productions, are the final touch to make this special.  The body of the sweater is knit in Malabrigo Sock (under two skeins) and the lace is Misti Alpaca Lace.  It is a ridiculously soft little number.

For comparison’s sake, here’s this photo paired with the original drawing.  Admittedly, the angle of the photograph isn’t wholly conducive to comparison, but I think you can see how it turned out.  I’ll probably take at least one photo with the silly ribbon belt I originally imagined!

So with this done, it should be less of the all Sunniva all the time situation that it’s been for months around here.  I tell you, I’m very happy with how this turned out, but I will think twice before deciding to design a sweater in two versions and light fingering weight yarn any time soon!

Let the sun shine in

July 12, 2010

Sunniva the First is finished.  Holy heck, that was quite a process! Thanks so much for all the encouragement, advice, and kindness along the way!  It’s somewhat embarrassing to open up the design process when it doesn’t go as planned, but the end result makes me feel glad for all the changes and rips and frustrations, since the fact that I didn’t compromise means that I got the sweater that was in my head.  I have a thing for puffed sleeves, though of course, a knitter who wanted to make the longer sleeved Sunniva and didn’t like puffed sleeves could easily knit straight and have a rather different look.

So, traveling back in time to the beginning, you’ll remember that I wanted to design a sweater that was very much like a tee shirt in ease of wear, but more formal in look and style.  I like button down blouses, but I’m not too keen on potential gapping at the button band, or in the fiddly process of fastening such a garment.  I feel very happy with what I’ve got here.  It is a tee shirt, essentially, but I think it does have a more formal look.  It’s very comfortable to wear, and the false button band looks pretty much as I’d hoped it would with my first, failed method of using twisted stitches. Since I was basing it on jersey tees, the shaping is at the sides, taking advantage of the knitted fabric’s stretch and natural drape.  I am a big fan of darts, but sometimes I feel like they interrupt the look of plain stockinette, and so in this case, we left the shaping to the sides.

The yarn is of course BFL wool from OrangeFlower, custom dyed in a Red Violet.  I love the color ridiculous amounts, which you may already know, since I haven’t shut up about it since I started.  It’s a light fingering weight.  The light part is important – it makes the fabric very breathable, and it means that the gauge is a little different than what you might get with a regular fingering weight.

Now, I still have to make – or rather remake – the second, short sleeved version of Sunniva, which will also incorporate an optional lace neck edging.    For comparison’s sake, here’s the starting sketch (which is of the other version of Sunniva) next to the finished longer sleeved version, without the optional lace.

It makes me happy to see that it’s pretty darn close.  I have everything I need for the second version, and my great hope is that it will go pretty fast, since the first one is done and can be used as a template.

Oh yes.

June 29, 2010

It’s blocking.  I still have to pick up the stitches around the neck and add a lip (garter? another turned hem?) but the vast majority of the knitting is done.  It is likely premature to say this, but I think this is my favorite thing I’ve ever knitted.  A lot of this is the yarn, which blocks out so beautifully, and picks up light in a really lovely way.  Part of it is the shape, which is modeled on some of my favorite shirts.  Part of it is the color, which is constantly revealing new surprises in different lights.

Finally seeing progress

June 15, 2010

So this isn’t the most flattering picture of me ever, but this is what Sunniva currently looks like.  I love the edge, which has a hem bind off that looks nice and neat and tailored, and I love the color, which is so rich and beautiful, and I love the way the Bluefaced Leicester wool feels and drapes.  (I have the worst time spelling Leicester.  I pronounce it Lester in my head, which I think is right or close to right, but then I want to spell it sans the ce. English, man.  Tough language.)

This version is going to have three quarter length sleeves that puff close to the ends.  I have a shirt with this sort of sleeve, and I think it’s very flattering, though there’s a part of me that thinks I shouldn’t push it and should just make fitted sleeves instead.  Or half sleeves.  A number of people have commented on liking the sleeves as they are, as cap sleeves, too, but I think I’d like this version to be the longer sleeved version.

The kids are now home for the summer, and we’re in the midst of our annual Rotten Cereal Week.  This is a tradition I have carried on from my childhood.  We’re pretty healthy eaters for most of the year, but one week out of the year, the week school lets out, each child can select a box of sugar coated evil and have it for breakfast.  Most mornings, breakfast is a bowl of Joe’s Os and milk with eggs and toast and orange juice or something.  But not this week.  This week breakfast comes in candy colors and candy flavors and it will make you completely insane.

Despite the unhealthy start to the day, we’re having a pleasantly laid back week thus far.  Poor Liam has a virus in his eyes, and he’s passed it on to me, but it’s not full blown pink eye, and we’re weathering it OK.  We’ve extended Rotten Cereal Week into Rot Your Brain Week as well, and have been watching far more cartoons than is usual, but I feel like the kids worked hard through the school year and need a little decompression right now.

Mr. Kninja’s week is not so laid back.  He’s working on a freelance job currently, which means his hours are 9 to 7 three days a week, and 9 (AM) to midnight the other two days.  He’s enjoying himself, but I have to admit that I’m looking forward to a time when he’s home more and gets a little more sleep.

I’m going to see this week how easy it is to transition to working on pattern design with three kids present nearly all of the time.  This should be exciting!

Color is colorful

June 4, 2010

Long time readers will not be surprised to hear that I’ve been sick.  Sorry for the silence!  It’s so frustrating to be taken down by your body when things seem to be going along swimmingly, or at least non-sickly.  I’m most of the way better now, which is good, as it means I won’t have to shank Fate.  Two of my friends and I have been planning a getaway for about a year now, and that’s to take place this weekend.  Had I been horribly unwell, I would have had to, at the very least, punch Fate in the kidneys. You do not mess with Piecation.  Dammit.

New Sunniva continues, slower than Old Sunniva, because the smaller gauge means more stitches.  I have to admit to feeling a little intimidated at making two of these at this rate, but I think it’s good that I’m making the longer sleeved version first this time.  The second one will be quicker.  And it’s still fun looking at the color of the red violet yarn in different lights and imagining how it will look when worn.  The semi-solid yarn is pooling and striping in a really pretty way that reminds me of velvet.

I think I solved my false button band problem.  One set of knit stitches is still slightly looser than the other, but I don’t think it’s the horrible problem this time that it was previously.

I’m using a modified heel stitch to create the band.  I like how this looks, and I like the sturdy fabric it creates.  It’s a simple conceit, but I find that simple is what I return to again and again.  I’m attracted to the complex initially, but I come home to simple, and I have been trying to aim my design that way, for a middle ground between frustrating and boring, someplace challenging, but not teeth grittingly so, and simple, but not mindlessly so.  If it stops being fun for me to knit, there’s a good chance it won’t be fun for other people to knit, either.

I’m also in the midst of a test knit, which I do during my down time, and once again, it’s color that’s got me hooked.

When I’m test knitting, I generally try to work from the stash, but this is harder than you might think, as my stash is not generally overflowing.  I do have a stash, it’s far larger than it used to be, but most of the yarn is either committed to a particular project or leftover from something else and in very small amounts.  So while the top yarn, ShibuiKnits Sock, is leftover from Surtsey, the bottom yarn, Sanguine Gryphon Bugga!, is purchased new for the job.  I decided to use the opportunity to whip up a gift for a friend and try a yarn I’ve been curious about at the same time.  And yeah, it’s great.  What I actually like most, though, is the fact that the Sanguine Gryphon has gone out of their way to make the yarn so easily available.  A lot of popular yarns are next to impossible to procure, but Bugga! is available regularly in large dyelots on the Sanguine Gryphon website.  Deciding to use it was simply a matter of heading over to their site and picking a color.  The shipping cost was excellent, and it shipped fast.

The color is Beyer’s Jewel Scarab, and it really as bright as pictured.  The cashmere content of course makes the yarn very soft, but what I actually like is the shape of the plied yarn.  It feels firm and slightly square (that sounds weird, but I can’t think of how else to describe it) and it doesn’t split easily, because the plies are very firmly wound together.

I doubt most of you need me to tell you that Bugga! is awesome (I cannot leave out that exclamation point) because it’s been insanely popular for a while now.  But it is indeed awesome, and the availability makes it accessible to a lot more knitters than some of the other spifftacular yarns I’ve reviewed here in the past.  Here’s a better portrait of the yarn on its own.

How green was my scarab.

In a tizzy

May 13, 2010

I’ve almost got the Surtsey pattern ready for test knitting, which makes me very happy.  I had some setbacks on math and wording, but I think we’re on the right path now.  And the new Sunniva sample is back on track, and I’m doing some test knitting for the ever-awesome Stephen West, so life is busy, but not half bad!

We got Nora’s hair trimmed.  I think they should have left some of the spiky edges, but it’s actually pretty cute, so I’m happy.  The initial shock of seeing her with her hair all gone is over, and now I can just enjoy having a little short haired pixie girl.

Sunniva is coming along splendidly!  I am still absolutely nuts about the gorgeous red violet color from Orangeflower.  It looks like velvet as it knits up.

Isn’t that pretty?  I am smitten.

I’ve also been working quietly on another project over the last couple of weeks.  I was doing some blog graphics for The Frugal Girl.  Although I don’t think I’ve previously mentioned her blog here before, you may very well have heard of it.  The Frugal Girl is a long time friend of mine, and she’s got a really snazzy money-saving blog that is enormously popular.  If you haven’t checked it out, I highly recommend it!  Kristen (other Kristen!) is a fun, sensible voice of reason, and I’m darn lucky to know her.  Her blog is full of really helpful information on a day to day basis.

It was so nice to be able to do a little illustration and graphic design work.  I was so resistant to the computer when I was in art school, but I’ve gotten to like drawing in Photoshop in recent years.  So yay!

OK, this is actually me procrastinating because I’m hating the math on the baby sweater right now, but I should get back to work.   With luck, you will be seeing test knits and new baby sweaters shortly!

What is what

April 16, 2010

Something is blocking.

I think I may need to do something with the button bands.  I’m trying not to be hyper critical of myself, but I’m not the best at picking up stitches, and I think it looks a little odd in parts.  We’ll see what happens when it’s dry!  The buttons, however, make me want to sing.  (And I have seven left, so hooray for red buttony goodness!)  I had imagined wooden buttons at first, but now I feel like I should have known that red was best.  Now to name it.  It looks a bit like blue ice, but who knows!

Another thingy: do you remember the too-big sweater coat I made ages ago?  And then felted to death?  I’ve hung on to the sad remains ever since, hoping to find a purpose for them.  And today I finally found that purpose.  Keep in mind before you look at the picture that I am not a very good seamstress.  And keep in mind that I took a perfectly excellent tutorial and tried to make it in a rather different way because I didn’t have the materials called for.  So with all that in mind, check out this sheep pillow!

I used this tutorial, which, if followed using flat wool felt and not crazy thick felted sweater that makes your sewing machine cry real tears, will result in the most adorable sheepy pillow ever in the history of sheep pillows.  Eleanor’s birthday is Sunday and Eleanor’s headboard has a lamb on it, so this pillow seemed like a fab idea.  Of course, that was before I made the sewing machine cry.  “E1!” it screamed, “E6!  Don’t make me do this!”  (The E’s are error messages.  Since I never seem to know where the English manual for the machine is, these little cries in the dark leave me worried, but mostly perplexed.)

Other random stuff to know:

I joined Twitter.  I don’t get it, and most of my (I am NOT going to use their cutesy little lingo) posts are just random stuff I’ve thought of, but there will be occasional knitting content.  If you have Twitter, and you think you’d like to see more of the contents of my brain, you can follow me here.  KnittingKninja was taken, so I’m KHanleyCardozo.  Hanley Cardozo, by the way, does not fit in their surname box, so I’m Kristen Hanley on there.  My name is too much for Twitter.  Too much for a lot of people, if I’m honest.  I did the double barreled surname when I got married, but since I did it without a hyphen, people constantly think that one name or the other is optional.  But yeah, I’m on there, and I feel old because it confuses me.  Doesn’t stop me from trying to use it, but I’m constantly bewildered.

Also, also, I am very, very bad at keeping content new and exciting in my Ravelry group.  I love participating in active forums, but I’m not good at being in charge of one.  If you’re someone who’s on Ravelry a lot, and who likes to be in charge of things, let me know if you’re interested in being a mod.  I’d be very happy to have some help!   On a similar note, I’m having a lot of trouble keeping up with the other group I started, Color Coordinated, and think it would be better led by someone who is not me.  I’d be happy to hand over the admin reins to anyone who thinks loves color and who is better at starting threads and keeping them active than I am.

If my speed picks up at all on pattern production, I may start a Facebook group as well.  However, since, as mentioned, I’m not very good at keeping content fresh and fun in a group setting, I’m putting this off as long as possible.

Only photos

April 2, 2010

Keyboard still broken.  Avoiding words with forbidden letters.  Only photos, today.

Facing facts

March 16, 2010

This is the post in which you really get to see inside this particular sausage factory.  Because this is the post in which I explain that things have gone wrong.

My gut should have been a good guide on this one.  The false button band on Sunniva showed signs of rebellion from the start.  But I thought I fixed it and much of what looked off seemed like it would probably block out.  Blocking is awesome!  Blocking will save us all!  And after all, there were a lot of little wonky looking stitches that really did block out.  So blocking was going to solve all my problems, end war around the world, and usher in a new age of peace and prosperity.

Except that it didn’t.  The sweater was hitting around my hips last night and I decided to take it off the needles to try it on and see how far it had to go.  And while I was at it, it was as good a time as any to block it out and see if the stitches decided to fall into place like good, compliant little minions.

My stitches are not good little minions.  No sir.  They are wild, free, and crazy little subjects who have no respect for me at all.  They did not lie down quietly when I came in with the blocking riot police.  Let’s take a closer look at that middle panel, shall we?

The stitches on the right side of the panel look great.  They are obedient.  The leftist stitches are not made in the same mold.  They have to be able to spread themselves out and express themselves.  Unfortunately, what they are expressing is, “I’m a sloppy mess and I make everyone else look bad.”  Look at the rest of those stitches!  The uneven parts evened themselves out and submitted to the blocking, knowing that resistance would only lead to trouble.  But the bad stitches on the left of my false button band ruined it for everyone else.  I see no choice but to rip and start over, rethinking the best way to manage a false button band.

That’s all the bad stuff.  Well, that, and the fact that I’m not sure the false button band really calls to mind a button band, though it does look rather like my drawing, and I think that I may need to add a little structure by going down a needle size.  There is good stuff to counter some of the bad.  The first good thing is that math fu is on.  I’m so happy with the shaping and sizing on this sweater.  Although there is positive ease throughout the sweater, it looks really fitted.  It feels comfortable, but wears to show off the curves, which is great.  I modeled the shaping after a favorite shirt, and I think that was the way to go, because I adore the basic look and fit of this sweater, even as I’m realizing that the feature that made it special doesn’t really work.  (Bah.)

My camera was really not cool with me trying to get pictures in the bathroom mirror, but here’s a very blurry modeled shot, so you can see that, even unfinished with curly edges, this sucker fits, and fits well.

That’s pretty rad.  It really does look how I wanted it to, other than that pesky band.  I love the color, I love the yarn, I love the way both knit up.  I love the way it feels when worn.  There’s a lot of good here, and a lot to make it clear that it wasn’t all a big waste of time.  But there is a lot of time devoted to this sweater that will have to be ripped.

And I guess that’s another advantage to having planned two versions.  Because I’m not going to rip this one right away.  I’m going to let it sit for a while in time out while I mourn it and plan for the corrections that will turn it into The Most Awesome Sweater Of All Time And Space.  And I’m going to start over with version two, the three quarter length sleeve version in magnificent red violet, after fiddling about with gauge and new button band ideas.  I definitely want this to be simple to make, so I am trying to ignore my idea about picking up stitches after the fact and making this weird rolling sort of band.  Swatching time.  This thing isn’t over yet.

In the beginning

March 8, 2010

In the beginning there was an idea.  I had this thought of a sweater for spring, one that was cute and somewhat formal, but comfortable and easy to wear, like a tee shirt.  It would be knit in heavy lace weight yarn or light fingering yarn on very slightly oversized needles, so that it would create a light, drapey fabric that would breathe. It would look a bit like a blouse or a cardigan, but would actually be a pullover.  And there would be a little lace, but not much.

Then there was a sketch. And a hunt for yarn that was both the right weight and the right color.  And a swatch.  I found that it was not that hard to create a false placket with twisted stitches.  I played around with top down and bottom up construction.  I wrote up a proposal and submitted the idea to Knitscene for Spring 2010.  It came back.  I thought about it some more and decided that it was the idea of all my ideas that I was most excited about right now.  I ordered the yarn for the yellow version (I’d gotten enough for a swatch, previously, but hadn’t been committed to buying more till I knew what was happening with it) and decided that since I’d be self publishing, I wanted a second version with different sleeves knit in a yarn from a small dyer, and in a different color, to show how the pattern would be changed with a color difference.

There was also a lot of math.  I’d done the math early on, but I find that I often have to adjust a bit as I’m knitting.  I know there are designers who essentially write out the pattern, sit down and bang out the sample without having to change a thing, but I’m not one of them.  It’s a very arduous process for me, because I like to change things on the fly.

Take, for example, the twisted stitch placket.  Looked great in swatch form.  I was so pleased with my clever idea.  And then I started knitting the sample.  This is the crisis I met with:

For some reason, which, truthfully, I have not figured out even yet, one purl column became enormous and the other pretty much disappeared.   There was also some odd gapping between twisted stitches.  I tried taking the stitches off the needles and blocking it, to see if that would solve the problem, but nope.  It was like that.  Luckily, after a little cursing, a little begging for help from Ravelry buddies, and a few deep breaths, a solution presented itself.  The offending stitches were dropped back to the bottom and picked up again, only this time, I twisted the purls.  It’s made a big difference, and while a major blocking will still be needed (oversized needles make blocking extra extra doubleplus good), it no longer looks like the above mess.

This is what it looks like right now.  I don’t know how easy it is to see in this picture, but I can see a definite line between the blocked section and everything that follows.  Excuse the lumpy stitches – they should even out later!

I’m placing the shaping at the sides, not normally my preference, but I thought that darts would look awful at this gauge.  And I’m using a favorite shirt to help with the shaping.  I doubt I’m going to use the ribbon belt I’d imagined in the first place.  Those things can look nice, but they also can look over the top and can obscure detail and draping.  I’m feeling pretty optimistic thus far, but if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that something can always go wrong, so I’m not relaxing yet!

The above is all done with one skein of Malabrigo Sock.  I think I may well be able to get the entire sweater out of two skeins, though I have an extra for security.  (I’m not picturing the security skein as the one I carry about for comfort!)

So that’s where I’m at so far!  Most of this month will be dedicated to the two samples for what I’m planning on calling Sunniva.


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